Chicken Noodle Soup

THE comfort recipe. I made this once for grandma Ruth when she wasn’t feeling well and had been dealing with nausea. She ate the whole bowl and said that Boogie would have been proud — I can think of no higher endorsement. I’ve refined this after making it countess times over the years, and this is what I judge to be a good midpoint between “the easiest possible” and “going all out.”

Perfect for any sick night or the first breath of fall. You must cook the noodles separately. Herbs are optional - this should taste really chicken-y first and foremost. This recipe reheats well, but store the soup and pasta separately.

Serves 4

45 minutes

For the soup:

• 1 scant tablespoon high-heat oil (peanut, canola, grapeseed etc)

• salt and black pepper - a lot

• 4 bone-in, skin on chicken thighs (do not use boneless skinless!!)

• 1/2 a large onion, diced

• 2 ribs of celery, diced

• 1 large or 2 medium carrots, diced

• 1-2 cloves garlic, minced*

• 2 heaping tablespoons of chicken bouillon**

• 2 quarts water

• 1/2 lemon, juiced

• (optional) dill, scallion, fresh oregano, thyme, or rosemary

For the pasta:

• 1 cup (8 oz.) dry pasta - Ditalini, Farfalle, Fusilli, Orecchiette, Pastina; shapes tend to work best.

• 1 pot of generously salted water

• a splash of olive oil

1. Preheat and season: In a dutch oven or large pot, heat the oil over medium high until shimmering. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously on both sides with salt and pepper. It can take a lot, but be careful if you’re using table salt. That stuff is strong.

2. Brown the chicken: Nestle the chicken pieces in the pot, skin side down. Let them sear without touching them for about 7 minutes. There should be some smoke. After 7 minutes, check one or two for color. Let them go till they’re not yellow, not golden, but BROWN. When the skin is truly brown, flip them and cook for about 3 minutes on the other side, then remove to a plate.

3. Soften the mirepoix: With the heat still on medium high, add the onion, celery and carrot to the pot. Cook for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the garlic, cooking for a minute or two more. Remove the skins from the chicken and set aside (yes, do it, see step 6).

4. Simmer and boil: Add the bouillon, chicken thighs (now skinless), and two quarts of water to the pot, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, skimming foam and excess fat as needed. Cook uncovered for 12 minutes. Start bringing the pasta water to a boil as soon as you’ve set your 12-minute soup timer.

5. Shred and shock: When 12 minutes had elapsed, remove the chicken thighs with tongs and shred it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones or reserve for stock, and add the shredded chicken back into the soup. Cook the pasta in the separate boiling water until just done. Run the pasta strainer under cold water, then toss the pasta with a splash of olive oil and set aside.

6. (optional but recommended): Kill the heat on the soup. Place the chicken skins crispy side up in a skillet over medium heat and cook until lightly browned on the underside. remove to a paper-towel lined plate like bacon, then chop finely and reserve for garnish.

7. Taste and serve: Juice the half lemon into the soup and season with salt and pepper as desired. Portion the pasta at the bottom of 4 bowls and ladle the soup over it. Garnish with herbs (sparingly) and skin pieces (liberally) as desired, and serve.

* yes, really only 1-2 cloves. garlic plays a supporting role here, it’s not the star. However, you can sub black garlic if you are lucky enough to have any on hand. Still, be sparing.

** I have abandoned store-bought chicken stock. I read a credible article recently talking about how most carton chicken stock was just reconstituted bouillon anyway, and bouillon is cheaper, takes up less space, and tastes great. However, if you happen to have home made chicken stock, by all means use it.

Weeknight Pressure Cooker Chicken Pho

Pho is my death row meal. It is the food I’ve probably eaten the most of on tour, and while I love the best of it, I’ll still relish the most mediocre bowl. Despite this, it’s a food which for a long time I thought it impossible to make at home in a satisfying or practical way. And for beef pho, this remains true. But chicken is a different story.

Yes, you do need a pressure cooker or Instant Pot for this recipe. If you don’t have one, but do have 3 hours to spare, check out Deb Perlman’s excellent chicken pho recipe on Smitten Kitchen. But, assuming you do, here is one SERIOUSLY Satisfying chicken soup, truly ready in under an hour.

Serves 4

45 minutes

• 1/2 Lb. dried rice noodles (“Banh Pho” or similar)

• 1 Whole chicken

• 1 Yellow Onion, unpeeled, cut in half

• 1 3” piece of ginger, unpeeled, cut in half hamburger style

• 1 head of garlic, unpeeled, cut in half hamburger style (yes, right through the middle)

• 1 Tbsp. whole coriander seeds (or 1 tsp ground, whole is preferred)

• 1 whole star anise pod

• 3 Tbsp. Brown sugar

• 1/4 cup fish sauce

• Salt and MSG to taste

• White pepper to taste

To serve:

• any combination of basil, cilantro, mint, scallion. The more the merrier

• (optional) thinly sliced onion

• (optional) 2-3 shallots, thinly sliced, fried until light brown, salted and drained (makes it less of a weeknight meal but fresh fried shallots are insanely good)

• Sriracha (optional but recommended)

1. Place noodles in a large bowl and cover with the hottest water available from the tap. Prepare other ingredients while noodles soak.

2. Move the oven rack to the highest position and turn on the broiler. Place the onion, garlic and ginger cut side up on a sheet pan and char under the broiler until blackened in spots. Garlic will go fast, the onions take longer. Remove as needed, and add to the pressure cooker.

3. Break down the chicken, saving the breasts for another use. Place the legs and thighs along with the carcass, neck, and wings in the pressure cooker, along with the coriander, anise, and any cilantro stems or scallion whites you have from your herbs.

4. Cover with water to the 2/3 mark and pressure cook on High for 18 minutes. Remove pot from heat and shock under cold running water until pressure is released*. While the broth cooks, prepare the herbs for serving.

5. Carefully remove the legs and thighs from the broth with tongs, shred, and set aside. Strain the rest of the contents of the pressure cooker through a fine mesh sieve into a pot which is at least 6 quarts. Discard the solids. If desired, skim fat off the top of the broth. Personally, I like to have a few globules but not a slick that covers the whole thing.

6. Season the strained broth with fish sauce, salt, MSG (if you have it - recommended) and brown sugar. Add in increments, tasting for sweetness and salty-savoriness. It may take more of both than written. Salty should be the lead flavor, with sweet in a supporting role, and it should be a little too salty, as the bland noodles will dilute it. Have courage. Once seasoned, add a few light dashes of white pepper.

7. Return the broth to a boil, while portioning the noodles into bowls along with the shredded chicken. Ladle the hot broth over the noodles and chicken (this will help the noodles finish cooking) and serve with the chopped herbs, onion or fired shallot (optional) and sriracha.

*I’m not sure you can do this with an Instant Pot. If it’s not an option, just use the valve to release the pressure. the broth will not be as clear, but will otherwise be the same.

Jim's Spicy Tortilla Soup

Ingredients for Soup: 

(Heaping) cup coarsely chopped onion (Ruth's job)

3 Tbls vegetable oil (may require a little more) 

5 corn tortillas coarsely chopped

6 cloves minced garlic (more is fine, less is unacceptable) 

1 Tbls chopped cilantro (or more!)

10 3/4 oz cans of tomato puree 

2 quarts chicken broth

2 Tsps of chili powder 

1 Tbls cumin 

1/8 Tsp cayenne pepper

2 bay leaves

2 skinned, boned chicken breast halves, chopped

Directions: 

Chop onion and set aside. Heat oil in dutch oven over medium heat. Cook chopped tortillas, garlic and cilantro until tortillas are soft. Add chopped onion and cook a little longer before adding tomato puree, chicken broth, cumin, chili powder, bay leaves, and cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer at least 30 minutes. Remove bay leaves. Stick bay leaves in your ears (they will do as much good here as they do in the soup). When you are ready to serve, heat the soup through and add chopped chicken, warming until chicken is warm. 

Directions for garnish: 

Cut 5 or more tortillas into thin strips and fry in hot oil over medium high heat. HINT: to get them crispy you will need to wait until the oil is very hot, and don't try to cook too many at once. Garnish soup with tortilla strips, cubed avocado, shredded cheddar cheese (sharp) chopped cilantro. Enjoy immensely.