Spaghetti All'assassina

This one is just for me. It is spicy, fussy, and the yield is small. But it’s also very special. If you’re reading this, it deserves a bit of story.

One of the very first things I ever cooked and called my own was “hot pasta,” literally just spaghetti with sauce from a jar to which I had added a bunch of dried cayenne. Fast forward about 13 years, and the algorithm on some social media site or other decided to feed me a video of someone making this recipe, spaghetti all’assassina. Originating in Bari, Italy (near the heel of the boot), this recipe involved deliberately charring the pasta and looked like the spiciest, savoriest, best dang version of pasta and tomato sauce I could imagine. I realized that this was the hot pasta I had wanted to be making all along.

So I set about trying to make it. I tried 4-5 different recipes to varying degrees of success, all leaving me wanting. The recipe below is a hybrid of several, the result of a lot of trial and even more error. it takes some nerve, but the good news is that even if you screw it up this dish still tends to be delicious.

NOTE: This recipe requires a 14” or larger pan. If you don’t have one, break your spaghetti in half, and then hide your face in shame. Not recommended. Also, stainless steel or enameled cast iron works best. Avoid nonstick - we want it to stick!! If you have to choose between the right size and the right material, go for the right material.

30 minutes

serves 2 as a main or 4 as a side

• 1 quart of water, moderately salted (i.e. not unpleasant to taste)

• 3 Tbsp olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

• 2 Tbsp. tomato paste

• 2 Tsp. red chili flake (the dish is meant to be spicy, but you can use less if desired)

• 1/2 Lb. (8 Oz.) spaghetti (bronze dye cut is important)

• 14 Oz. (1 bottle) Passatta (plain tomato sauce)

To serve:

• juice of 1/2 lemon

• 1 burrata, divided into segments

1. In a small saucepan, bring the salted water to a boil, then reduce heat.

2. In a separate, large pan (14” or more), heat the olive oil on medium high till shimmering. Add the garlic, tomato paste and chili flake, mixing and spreading aroud until fragrant, 20-30 seconds. Add the dry pasta directly on top of the oil mixture, spreading to cover as much surface as possible.

3. Pour in about 1/4 of the passatta, and just enough of the hot salted water to cover the pasta in the pan. Spread the passatta as needed but do not disturb the pasta. Wait for the sound of simmering (hot water) to turn into sizzling (hot oil), then wait 30 more seconds.

4. Use a fish turner or hard spatula to flip the sheet of pasta over in chunks.The pasta should look charred and blackened in spots. Scrape up any charred bits as you go.

5. Repeat seps 3-4 until the pasta reaches desired doneness, allowing more char as you go. Note: you may not use all the passatta or water. That is ok. The pasta is cooked when it’s cooked.

6. Taste for salt, adding more if desired, then transfer to bowls and serve immidiately with a small squeeze of lemon and the portioned burrata.

Chicken Noodle Soup

THE comfort recipe. I made this once for grandma Ruth when she wasn’t feeling well and had been dealing with nausea. She ate the whole bowl and said that Boogie would have been proud — I can think of no higher endorsement. I’ve refined this after making it countess times over the years, and this is what I judge to be a good midpoint between “the easiest possible” and “going all out.”

Perfect for any sick night or the first breath of fall. You must cook the noodles separately. Herbs are optional - this should taste really chicken-y first and foremost. This recipe reheats well, but store the soup and pasta separately.

Serves 4

45 minutes

For the soup:

• 1 scant tablespoon high-heat oil (peanut, canola, grapeseed etc)

• salt and black pepper - a lot

• 4 bone-in, skin on chicken thighs (do not use boneless skinless!!)

• 1/2 a large onion, diced

• 2 ribs of celery, diced

• 1 large or 2 medium carrots, diced

• 1-2 cloves garlic, minced*

• 2 heaping tablespoons of chicken bouillon**

• 2 quarts water

• 1/2 lemon, juiced

• (optional) dill, scallion, fresh oregano, thyme, or rosemary

For the pasta:

• 1 cup (8 oz.) dry pasta - Ditalini, Farfalle, Fusilli, Orecchiette, Pastina; shapes tend to work best.

• 1 pot of generously salted water

• a splash of olive oil

1. Preheat and season: In a dutch oven or large pot, heat the oil over medium high until shimmering. While the oil is heating, season the chicken generously on both sides with salt and pepper. It can take a lot, but be careful if you’re using table salt. That stuff is strong.

2. Brown the chicken: Nestle the chicken pieces in the pot, skin side down. Let them sear without touching them for about 7 minutes. There should be some smoke. After 7 minutes, check one or two for color. Let them go till they’re not yellow, not golden, but BROWN. When the skin is truly brown, flip them and cook for about 3 minutes on the other side, then remove to a plate.

3. Soften the mirepoix: With the heat still on medium high, add the onion, celery and carrot to the pot. Cook for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the garlic, cooking for a minute or two more. Remove the skins from the chicken and set aside (yes, do it, see step 6).

4. Simmer and boil: Add the bouillon, chicken thighs (now skinless), and two quarts of water to the pot, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, skimming foam and excess fat as needed. Cook uncovered for 12 minutes. Start bringing the pasta water to a boil as soon as you’ve set your 12-minute soup timer.

5. Shred and shock: When 12 minutes had elapsed, remove the chicken thighs with tongs and shred it into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones or reserve for stock, and add the shredded chicken back into the soup. Cook the pasta in the separate boiling water until just done. Run the pasta strainer under cold water, then toss the pasta with a splash of olive oil and set aside.

6. (optional but recommended): Kill the heat on the soup. Place the chicken skins crispy side up in a skillet over medium heat and cook until lightly browned on the underside. remove to a paper-towel lined plate like bacon, then chop finely and reserve for garnish.

7. Taste and serve: Juice the half lemon into the soup and season with salt and pepper as desired. Portion the pasta at the bottom of 4 bowls and ladle the soup over it. Garnish with herbs (sparingly) and skin pieces (liberally) as desired, and serve.

* yes, really only 1-2 cloves. garlic plays a supporting role here, it’s not the star. However, you can sub black garlic if you are lucky enough to have any on hand. Still, be sparing.

** I have abandoned store-bought chicken stock. I read a credible article recently talking about how most carton chicken stock was just reconstituted bouillon anyway, and bouillon is cheaper, takes up less space, and tastes great. However, if you happen to have home made chicken stock, by all means use it.